If you own an older home, you eventually face a decision that feels as big as replacing a roof: whether to repipe the plumbing. Pipes don’t last forever. Galvanized steel closes up with rust, polybutylene becomes brittle, copper pinholes under aggressive water, and even PEX has a lifespan. When pipes start to fail, the costs arrive in two waves. First, water damage and emergency calls. Then, the actual price of repipe plumbing. Homeowners want a straight answer on dollars, timelines, and how to make a smart plan. Here’s what it really takes, and what you can expect to pay.
What “repiping” actually means
Repiping replaces the water distribution lines in a home, not the drains. The goal is to install new hot and cold supply lines from the main shutoff to each fixture, with modern materials and a layout that improves flow and access. On most full-house projects, crews run new lines through walls, ceilings, attics, or crawl spaces, then cap or abandon the old network. A proper repipe includes new shutoff valves at each fixture, new supply lines to faucets and toilets, and often new main shutoff and pressure regulating components near the meter.
A “partial repipe” swaps lines in one zone, like a second-floor bathroom stack or a kitchen wing. It can be a stopgap in a remodel, but it rarely solves systemic problems like rusty water or fluctuating pressure.
Typical price ranges by home type
Prices vary with material, local labor, and access, but here are realistic ballparks based on jobs homeowners routinely approve.
- Small single-story home or condo, 1 bath, good access: 4,000 to 9,000 Mid-size single-story, 2 baths, crawl space or basement: 6,500 to 12,000 Two-story home, 2 to 3 baths, drywall patching required: 10,000 to 18,000 Larger home, 3 to 4 baths, complex runs or slab: 15,000 to 30,000 Very large or luxury home with long runs, multiple zones: 25,000 to 60,000+
Those numbers typically cover new water lines, valves, reconnection at fixtures, pressure testing, permits, basic drywall patching, and a standard one- or two-year workmanship warranty. They usually exclude repainting and repairs to finishes beyond basic wall and ceiling patches. If walls have thick plaster, custom tile, or elaborate millwork, expect higher labor costs and a painter’s bill after the plumbers leave.
What affects the price more than you think
The pipe material matters, but it is not the only driver. Access, layout, and your local code requirements often sway the number more.
Material choice. Copper type L costs more in both material and labor. PEX-A or PEX-B usually installs faster with fewer joints, which can shave hours off the job. CPVC sits between them, though many contractors prefer PEX for speed and resilience. In markets with high copper theft risk, PEX wins on both cost and peace of mind.
Access and finishes. A house with an open basement or a clean crawl space is a dream to work in. Crews can pull runs in long, straight shots, minimizing drywall cuts. Homes with slab foundations require overhead runs through the attic, which brings insulation work, more ladder time, and careful routing to avoid heat buildup. Lathe-and-plaster or tiled walls drive up cost because patches are slower, and matching finishes takes finesse.
Fixture count and branch design. Each additional sink, hose bib, toilet, ice maker, or shower adds valves, fittings, and time. A manifold system that gives each fixture a home run line from a central panel can be excellent for maintenance and pressure balance, but the extra lines add material and routing complexity.
Local labor rates and permits. Metropolitan markets with high wages push numbers up, and some jurisdictions require more inspections or specific seismic strapping, bonding of metallic piping, or pressure-reducing valves. Expect permit fees anywhere from 150 to 1,000+, depending on your city.
Water chemistry and code details. If your water is aggressive or you have high static pressure, your plumber may specify pressure regulating valves, expansion tanks, hammer arrestors, and dielectric unions. Materials and extra steps add dollars, but they are cheap insurance against failure and noise.
Copper, PEX, or CPVC: practical trade-offs
Every plumber has a preference. The right choice depends on your budget, climate, and taste for maintenance.
Copper type L. Durable, familiar, and time tested. It tolerates UV exposure, so short exterior runs are allowed where code permits. Soldered joints are reliable when done right. Copper can pinhole in acidic water, and it loses heat more quickly than PEX in long attic runs. It is also the priciest material today. If you want resale optics and a traditional build, copper still wins hearts.
PEX (cross-linked polyethylene). Flexible, fast to install, and quiet. The fewer fittings inside walls, the fewer potential leak points. In freeze-prone regions, PEX can flex slightly and survive events that would burst rigid pipe. Protect it from UV and rodents, and use sleeves where it passes through studs. Quality fittings and proper expansion or crimp tools matter. For most modern repipes, PEX strikes the best balance of cost and performance.
CPVC. Inexpensive and easy to solvent-weld. It does not corrode and handles typical household temperatures, but it is more brittle than PEX, especially over time in hot mechanical rooms. Many contractors repipe with CPVC in budget projects, yet PEX has largely displaced it in many regions.
If you plan to keep the home for decades and want a single-and-done solution, PEX or copper type L are the top contenders. In attics or tight chases, PEX reduces joints and labor. In exposed basements where neat, straight lines double as a visual feature, copper shines.
Breaking down a professional repipe estimate
A trustworthy estimate spells out scope in plain terms. It should list which fixtures get new lines, the material type and size, new shutoff valves, insulation in unconditioned spaces, and whether patching and permits are included. Labor will be the biggest slice. Material is the next. Overhead and profit are real costs that keep licensed, insured crews accountable.
On a mid-size two-bath home, a typical cost might look like this in practice:
- 55 to 65 labor hours for a two- or three-person crew over two to four days 1,000 to 2,500 in PEX and fittings, or 2,000 to 4,500 in copper and fittings 250 to 600 in valves, stops, and supply lines 150 to 1,000 in permit and inspection fees 300 to 1,000 in basic drywall patches and texture
Add-ons include pressure regulating valves, expansion tanks for closed systems, whole-home shutoff or leak detection devices, and insulation upgrades on long hot-water runs. If the water heater is at end of life, it often makes sense to combine the work to save on mobilization.
Timeline and what living through it feels like
Most single-family repipes take two to five working days once the crew starts. Complex homes can run a week or more. Water is not off the entire time. Plumbers typically keep one bathroom running while they work on the other. They will shut down the system in blocks of a few hours to tie in the new lines and test them. Expect some noise, dust, and wall cuts. Good crews drape furniture, run floor protection, and clean up daily.
Drywall patches go in near the end of the plumbing scope. Texture and paint usually happen after final inspection. If you schedule your painter for the day after the plumber’s last visit, you can get back to normal quickly.
Signs you need a repipe instead of another repair
A single leak does not mean the whole house is doomed. Patterns do. If you keep replacing sections of galvanized or copper every few months, the clock is ticking. Telltale signs include rusty or yellow water after vacations, frequent pinhole leaks in copper, shower temperature swings when a toilet flushes, and low flow at multiple fixtures. Galvanized systems often lose diameter to the point where you cannot run a dishwasher and a shower at the same time. At that stage, a piecemeal approach is false economy.
Insurance plays into this decision too. Repeated water claims raise premiums and can lead to exclusions. Some insurers will nudge you toward repiping if your home has polybutylene or if you have a string of claims.
The hidden costs that surprise homeowners
Most people budget for the plumber and forget about the walls. If you have custom finishes, factor in the trades that follow. Painters charge for color matching and full-room work if you want a clean look. Tile that must be opened and later matched can balloon costs. Built-ins like bookcases or cabinets can slow progress and add carpentry time. In older homes, asbestos or lead paint requires careful handling and disposal by licensed specialists, which adds days and dollars.
If the repipe goes through the attic, you may need to pull back and replace portions of insulation to Happy Valley plumbing solutions create pathways. In hot climates, you will want the new hot-water lines well insulated to reduce standby losses and keep attic heat from cooking the system. That material is cheap, but the labor to snake it cleanly is not.
How to compare bids like a pro
Use the same scope when you request quotes, or you will end up comparing apples to pears. Ask each contractor to specify:
- Pipe material and sizes, including brand Whether a manifold or trunk-and-branch layout will be used Which fixtures and hose bibs are included, and whether ice makers and softener loops are in scope Permit, inspection, and pressure testing details Patching and paint responsibilities, including texture matching
Then look at how each contractor plans to access the work. Are they running overhead and dropping down, or cutting first-floor walls? Do they plan to replace the main shutoff and add a pressure reducing valve if your static pressure is 80 psi or more? Ask about fixture shutoff valves and whether supply lines are included. Good bids read like a plan, not a mystery.
DIY versus hiring a pro
Plenty of skilled homeowners handle their own bathroom remodels. A whole-house repipe is different. You are threading a new circulatory system through tight spaces, navigating code, pressure testing the network, and coordinating inspection. The margin for error is small. A slow leak in a wall can run for weeks. If you plan to sell, unpermitted work will come back to haunt you during disclosure.
The exceptions: a partial repipe during a gut remodel, or a simple manifold addition in a garage where everything is exposed. Even then, consult your building department. Permits protect you when you sell and streamline insurance claims if something goes wrong.
The inspection and what the inspector looks for
Inspectors usually care about three things: materials that meet code, proper support and protection, and solid pressure test results. Expect them to check:
Pipe sizing. Trunk lines and branches sized for fixture counts, especially in large homes. Undersized lines cause pressure dips, oversized can encourage stagnation.
Supports and protection. Pipe straps at required intervals. Sleeves or grommets where pipes pass through studs to prevent abrasion. Nail plates where pipes are within strike distance of screws.
Temperature and pressure control. Water heater set to safe temperatures, pressure regulating valve where static pressure is high, expansion tank on closed systems, and vacuum breaker protection where needed.
Dielectric isolation where dissimilar metals meet, bonding requirements for metal piping, and insulation on hot lines in unconditioned spaces.
A clean pressure test, often 100 psi for a set duration, demonstrates sound joints and fittings.
Add-ons that may be worth it
Once walls are open, take advantage. A few small upgrades save headaches later.
- Whole-home shutoff with a smart leak detector. Automatic valves that close on leak detection can stop a disaster while you are away. The cost is modest compared to one water-damaged ceiling. Extra shutoff valves. Add isolation at logical points, such as the line feeding outdoor hose bibs or a run that serves the upstairs bathrooms. Maintenance becomes easier. Recirculation loop for hot water. If your kitchen is across the house from the water heater, a demand-based recirc pump shortens wait times and reduces wasted water. It does require power and thoughtful routing. Hose bib upgrades with vacuum breakers and freeze-resistant models in cold climates. Cheap and practical. Sediment or whole-home filtration at the point of entry if your water quality justifies it. Protects fixtures and valves.
Keep it practical. Gold plating the system with gadgets can balloon costs. Focus on reliability and serviceability.
What about water heaters and softeners during a repipe
You can keep an existing water heater and still gain benefits from new lines. That said, if the heater is near the end of its service life, replacing it during the repipe avoids duplicate mobilization and lets the crew rebuild the connections with matching materials. Same logic applies to water softeners or conditioning systems. If you plan to add one, tell the plumber early so they can stub out connections and leave room in the mechanical area.
Tankless conversions pair well with repipes if gas lines or electrical capacity are adequate. Just account for venting, condensate, and service clearances. The combined job costs more upfront, but you leave the mechanical side clean and modern.
Financing and insurance angles
Some contractors offer financing through third-party lenders. Interest rates vary, and you will be better off with a home equity line if you have one. On the insurance side, repiping is a capital improvement, not a claim. However, if your project follows a covered loss, your adjuster may pay to access and repair finishes related to that specific event. They will not pay to replace all the old piping. Discuss scope and documentation with your contractor so invoices clearly separate restoration from improvement.
How to prep your home so the crew moves fast
Clearing access saves hours. Move furniture away from bathrooms and kitchens. Empty vanities and under-sink areas. In two-story homes, make path space in hallways and staircases for ladders. If you have pets, plan for containment. Label any areas with delicate finishes you want handled with extra care. Give the crew a designated staging area for pipe and tools. The cleaner the worksite, the faster the job and the less dust migration you will have.
Real-world numbers, with context
A 1,650-square-foot ranch with two baths, a laundry room off the kitchen, and a crawl space: 7,800 with PEX, including permit, new main shutoff, PRV, and basic drywall patching. Two and a half days on site, water off for two four-hour windows. Homeowner hired a painter for 1,200 to repaint repaired areas.
A 2,400-square-foot two-story built in the 1960s with galvanized pipe and plaster walls: 14,500 using copper for the exposed basement runs and PEX in walls. Add 800 for patching and 2,100 for plaster and paint because of a patterned finish. Five days total, with temporary bypass to keep one bathroom live at all times.
A 3,800-square-foot slab-on-grade home in a hot climate: 24,000 with PEX overhead through the attic, heavy insulation on hot lines, new recirc loop on a demand pump, and smart shutoff. Eight working days, staged in zones to limit water downtime. Painter budget: 2,800.
These are defensible numbers in many markets. Your zip code, material selection, and finishes will nudge them up or down.
Frequently asked questions, answered bluntly
Will repipe plumbing raise my Repipe Plumbing home’s value? It helps with marketability and appraisal comments for older homes, but it is not like adding a bathroom. Think of it as protecting value rather than creating it. Buyers who know older plumbing will see the upgrade as a green flag and may pay a little more or move faster.
How long will new pipes last? Copper type L, 40 to 60 years depending on water chemistry and workmanship. PEX, 30 to 50 years based on current data and manufacturer warranties, possibly longer. CPVC, similar to PEX in many cases, though brittleness over decades can shorten practical life in hot areas. Valves and flexible connectors will need attention sooner.
Is PEX safe? Yes, PEX is code approved across the United States and widely used worldwide. If taste or odor matters, flush new systems and consider a short run of copper from the water heater to temper early taste. Use brand-name pipe and fittings. Avoid direct sunlight exposure.
Can I repipe in winter? Absolutely, with planning. In freeze climates, the crew will protect attic runs and may use temporary heat. Expect longer attic time and careful insulation.
Will I need to replace my fixtures? Not unless they are failing. Reconnecting to existing faucets and toilets is standard. If you want to refresh, the repipe is a convenient moment, but it is optional.
How messy is it? There will be dust and wall cuts. Good crews isolate work zones and clean daily. Ask about floor protection and HEPA vacuums. If you have allergies or sensitive family members, make that clear and schedule accordingly.
What if my pressure is already high? High static pressure accelerates wear. A repipe is the perfect time to add a pressure regulating valve. Target 55 to 65 psi for a balance of performance and longevity.
Can I phase the work? You can, but it costs more per fixture because the crew mobilizes multiple times and you lose efficiencies. If budget demands phases, prioritize the worst lines and the highest-risk areas, such as ceilings below bathrooms.
How to choose the right contractor without rolling the dice
Licensing and insurance are the baseline. Ask for a copy of their license and a certificate of insurance that names you as an additional insured for the project dates. Request two recent references for similar homes. Talk to those homeowners about punctuality, cleanliness, and how the crew managed water downtime.
Look for clear communication during the site visit. Good plumbers map out routing options, talk through material choices, and explain trade-offs without pushing. If they are vague about access or dismiss permits as optional, that is a sign to move on. Warranty terms matter too. A one- or two-year workmanship warranty is common. Some contractors pair that with a manufacturer-backed materials warranty for PEX systems.
The quiet benefits you notice later
After a proper repipe, the house feels calmer. Showers keep temperature when someone flushes. Faucets deliver clean, clear water. The shutoff valves actually turn when you need them. You sleep better during a thunderstorm, knowing a pinhole is not silently spreading behind the drywall. And when you sell, buyers see new piping in the disclosure and stop looking for the next problem.
A practical path to a smart repipe
If your home is sending the usual signals, do not wait for the catastrophic leak. Get two or three on-site bids with matching scope. Decide on PEX or copper based on your climate, finishes, and budget. Build a small contingency, 10 percent, for surprises inside walls. Coordinate a painter to follow the plumber. Plan meals and showers around the short water-off windows. And insist on permits and a pressure test, even if your city looks the other way.
Repiping is not glamorous, but it is one of the highest leverage projects in home ownership. It takes a few days, costs real money, and pays you back in reliability every time you turn a handle. When you approach it with clear expectations and a disciplined scope, repipe plumbing stops being a mystery and becomes a clean, decisive upgrade you do once and appreciate for decades.
Business Name: Principled Plumbing LLC Address: Oregon City, OR 97045 About Business: Principled Plumbing: Honest Plumbing Done Right, Since 2024 Serving Clackamas, Multnomah, Washington, Marion, and Yamhill counties since 2024, Principled Plumbing installs and repairs water heaters (tank & tankless), fixes pipes/leaks/drains (including trenchless sewer), and installs fixtures/appliances. We support remodels, new construction, sump pumps, and filtration systems. Emergency plumbing available—fast, honest, and code-compliant. Trust us for upfront pricing and expert plumbing service every time! Website: https://principledplumbing.com/ Phone: (503) 919-7243